Nedavno je učiteljica moje kćeri pitala djecu jesu li već bili na branju grožđa. Prekrasna tradicija okupljanja s prijateljima i rodbinom za zajednički rad i druženje, bilo da je riječ o branju grožđa ili maslina, potrebna je i u Ukrajini. Uostalom, vinarstvo nije nova grana za Ukrajinu.

Porijeklo vinogradarstva u Ukrajini

Grožđe su na područje današnje Ukrajine, na Krim, donijeli još Grci u 5. stoljeću. U vrijeme Rusi (Kijevske Rusi) vina su se proizvodila na cijelom području srednjovjekovne države, uključujući Kijev. Najveći razvoj vinarstvo je doseglo u 18. i 19. stoljeću. Međutim, već u sovjetsko vrijeme, zbog “borbe za trijeznost”, uništeno je mnogo vinograda, a većina autohtonih sorti je izgubljena.

Za vrijeme ukrajinske neovisnosti, vinarstvo se počelo obnavljati, ali ukrajinska vina nisu bila i još uvijek nisu previše poznata.

Terroir: vinogradarske regije i njihove posebnosti

U Ukrajini se vinarstvo tradicionalno razvijalo na Krimu, te na jugu i zapadu zemlje. Međutim, sada zbog rata i klimatskih promjena, vinari sve češće uzgajaju vinovu lozu i u središnjim i sjevernim regijama. Posebnosti klime i velika raznolikost tla čine vina posebnima i vrlo raznolikima. 

Južne regije su sunčane, s blagom zimom i vrućim ljetom. Vinogradi se nalaze blizu mora, Crnog i Azovskog. U središnjoj Ukrajini tlo je plodno, a vlažnost visoka. U zapadnim regijama vinogradi su smješteni na padinama Karpata. Ovdje se također proizvode vina od bobičastog voća i voća.

Vinarstvo za vrijeme rata

Rat je, naravno, negativno utjecao na vinarstvo. Uz Krim, okupiran još 2014. godine, dodana su i područja južne Ukrajine. Neke su vinarije opljačkale okupatorske snage, a vinogradi su minirani. Velika šteta nanesena je skladišnim i logističkim centrima. Vinarija u Bahmutu, o kojoj smo ovdje pisali, potpuno je uništena.

Unatoč tome, ukrajinsko vinarstvo nije propalo. Vinari premještaju proizvodnju, pojavljuju se nove male vinarije. Ukrajinska vina dobivaju međunarodne nagrade na profesionalnim festivalima, poput zlatne medalje na Decanter World Wine Awards 2022. u Londonu.

Stoga se nakon pobjede svi mi, ljubitelji vina, nadamo prilici da se okupimo u vinogradu i pridružimo se magiji stvaranja vina.

Winemaking and War

A few days ago, my daughter’s teacher asked the children if anyone had already been to the grape harvest. A wonderful tradition of gathering with friends and relatives for joint work and communication while harvesting grapes or olives is also needed in Ukraine. However, winemaking is not a new industry for Ukraine.

The Origins of Viticulture in Ukraine

Grapes were brought to the territory of modern Ukraine, to Crimea, by the Greeks in the 5th century. During the time of Rus’ (Kyivan Rus’), wines were made throughout the medieval state, including Kyiv. Winemaking reached its peak development in the 18th and 19th centuries. However, in the Soviet era, due to the “fight for sobriety,” many vineyards were destroyed, and most of the authentic varieties were lost.

After Ukraine gained independence, winemaking began to revive, but Ukrainian wines were and still are not very well known.

Terroir: Winemaking Regions and Their Characteristics

In Ukraine, winemaking is traditionally developed in Crimea, and in the south and west of the country. However, now due to the war and climate change, winemakers are increasingly growing vines in the central and northern regions as well. The peculiarities of the climate and the great variety of soils make the wines special and very diverse. 

The southern regions are sunny, with mild winters and hot summers. The vineyards are located near the Black and Azov Seas. In central Ukraine, the soil is fertile and humidity is high. In the western regions, the vineyards are located on the slopes of the Carpathians. Wines are also made here from berries and fruits.

Winemaking during the War

The war, of course, has negatively affected winemaking. The territories of southern Ukraine have been added to the already occupied since 2014 Crimea. Some wineries were looted by the occupying forces, and the vineyards were mined. Huge damage was caused to warehouses and logistics centers. The winery in Bakhmut, which we wrote about here, was completely destroyed.

Despite this, Ukrainian winemaking has not declined. Winemakers are relocating production, and new craft wineries are appearing. Ukrainian wines are receiving international awards at professional festivals, such as the gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2022 in London.

1. So after the victory, all of us, wine connoisseurs, hope for the opportunity to gather in a vineyard and join the magic of creating wine.